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Developing Python implementation of simplified nearshore spectral wave models.

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Phase-averaging models for ocean waves

Numerical solutions to the 4d linear transport equation for wave energy $$\frac{\partial N}{\partial t} + \nabla\cdot(\mathbf{c}N) = S $$ where $\mathbf{x}=(x,y,\sigma,\theta)\in\Omega\in\mathbb{R}^4$ and time $t>0$.

2d_equations_refraction

References

  1. SWAN Scientific and Technical Documentation Cycle III v41.45
  2. Holthuijsen (2007) Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters
  3. Young (1999) Wind Generated Ocean Waves
  4. Zijlema (2019) Accuracy aspects of conventional discretization methods for scalar transport with nonzero divergence velocity field arising from the energy balance equation

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